Almoraboy's Pensieve

A Travel Diary on the Uttarakhand Himalayas

2015-09-12T17:01:00.008+05:30

Hi all,

Due to some requests, I have decided to go ahead and restructure the blog. This will serve as the home page of the blog. Of course, there will be some days before the whole exercise is completed. I hope to have an efficient navigation system in place soon.

Chopta - Tungnath - Chandrashila Trip

Har Ki Dun Trip

Non trek reports

paa3

2011-12-16T22:05:00.020+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Trip Oct 2011 -> Picknicking around Almora -> Part 3

paa4

2011-12-16T22:05:00.019+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Trip Oct 2011 -> Picknicking around Almora -> Part 4

paa2

2011-12-16T22:05:00.017+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Trip Oct 2011 -> Picknicking around Almora -> Part 2

paa1

2011-12-16T22:05:00.016+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Trip Oct 2011 -> Picknicking around Almora -> Part 1

Picknicking Around Almora

2011-12-16T22:00:00.005+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Trip Oct 2011 -> Picknicking around Almora

HimkholaToAlmora

2011-12-16T21:46:00.006+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Trip Oct 2011 -> Himkhola To Almora

sfrt5

2011-11-28T00:57:00.019+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Trip Oct 2011 -> Shyankoti Fort -> Part 5

some houses of himkhola village can be seen far below. this fort really was made at a vantage point.

remains of the fort lying all over a huge area ... in the jungle also.

api, as seen from the fort.

"cheekhu" fruit (can't remember the exact name) .. we can eat it like this, but is very very sour in taste.

enjoying the fruit

api peak of nepal ... covered by the clouds.

the clouds clear to give us a better view of the peaks

gaurav gives a documentary on the king and his fort. he describes the attacks by the tibetan and the gorkha armies. the tibetans came from kidang (taklakot village).

Some more info can be found in the book about these regions by Henry Savage Langdor over here.

coming back. we were tired, so did not take much pics on the way back. plus, coming down was really tough.

dinner time. food here was better than KMVN, whose service standards have been unfortunately slipping in the past few years.

next day we left for almora. nice trip :-)

Home -> Kumaon Trip Oct 2011 -> Shyankoti Fort -> Part 5

sfrt6

2011-11-28T00:57:00.014+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Trip Oct 2011 -> Shyankoti Fort -> Part 6

sfrt8

2011-11-28T00:57:00.011+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Trip Oct 2011 -> Shyankoti Fort -> Part 8

sfrt7

2011-11-28T00:57:00.010+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Trip Oct 2011 -> Shyankoti Fort -> Part 7

sfrt4

2011-11-28T00:56:00.024+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Trip Oct 2011 -> Shyankoti Fort -> Part 4

this climb was a bit tricky as there was no path :-O

and a bit tiring...

look at the vertical"ness" of the cliff face ...

we have to go somewhere up there ...

taking a break

we took a break for lunch on a small flat piece of land

enjoying aloo poree and watching transformers 3 on i-pad.

now the fort gets closer .... but still tough to climb

that is another part of the remains of the fort .... once upon a time it would have been really impressive. One can imagine the gorkha and tibetan armies charging over here and getting repulsed from the top. Whoever controls this fort controls most of chaudas valley.

finally .... we reached ... Api peak of nepal can be seen in the background

these are the remains of the fort. the stones made to build this come from the river bed of the gadhera flowing in the valley below. ?Imagine how the people would have carried this here and made an entire fort hundreds of years ago .... without any modern equipment....

Home -> Kumaon Trip Oct 2011 -> Shyankoti Fort -> Part 4

sfrt3

2011-11-28T00:56:00.023+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Trip Oct 2011 -> Shyankoti Fort -> Part 3

check out the horns on this one....

this one had the biggest horns

this little lamb was born and i took the pic just seonds after that. happy birthday to you little one :-)

These lambs look delicate but are pretty hardy. by evening it will be able to walk on its own and eat grass and leaves.

this was the toughest part of the climb .... phew.

left himkhola village behind

see the "small" fort remains between the two trees .... that is from where the fort started. they really picked a nice place to make it.

Home -> Kumaon Trip Oct 2011 -> Shyankoti Fort -> Part 3

sfrt2

2011-11-28T00:56:00.022+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Trip Oct 2011 -> Shyankoti Fort -> Part 2

long climb to shyankoti. the route is very simple. follow the gadhera till exactly this point. turn left and head up. even though the route is just 5 kms, the last 2 kms are no route at all .... you just have to climb

walnuts lying scattered on the forest floor. there are many walnut trees in the forest.

taking a back after navigating many crossbacks.

we meet another herd of sheep ... with the dog guarding them fiercely.

grrr .... i'm on watch here :-)

the shepards were king enough to give us some water for the rest of the journey

Home -> Kumaon Trip Oct 2011 -> Shyankoti Fort -> Part 2

sfrt1

2011-11-28T00:56:00.021+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Trip Oct 2011 -> Shyankoti Fort -> Part 1

the next day we decided to go to syankoti fort (or rajakot).

the local king had (hundreds of years back) built this fort up here to protect against invasions from nepal and tibet. Gaurav was kind enough to give us a documentary on the same.

that is karandang... right at the top.

crossing a local gadhera

picturesque himkhola village

the shepards were bringing their sheep back to the village after spending some months in the higher reaches of the bugyals (where they get very nutritious grass)

Home -> Kumaon Trip Oct 2011 -> Shyankoti Fort -> Part 1

Shyankoti fort

2011-11-28T00:34:00.004+05:30

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nass8

2011-11-28T00:26:00.004+05:30

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Home - Kumaon Trip (Oct 2011) -> Narayan Ashram and Syangse Sthan -> Part 8

there was a festival in himkhola .... so people were in a very festive mood plus lots of snacks for dinner

Home - Kumaon Trip (Oct 2011) -> Narayan Ashram and Syangse Sthan -> Part 8

nass7

2011-11-27T19:38:00.038+05:30

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Home - Kumaon Trip (Oct 2011) -> Narayan Ashram and Syangse Sthan -> Part 7

syangse sthan temple

group picture at syangse sthan

old bells at syangse sthan

temple bells

heading back. this path is very steep

back at hiomkhola

dinner time

Home - Kumaon Trip (Oct 2011) -> Narayan Ashram and Syangse Sthan -> Part 7

nass6

2011-11-27T19:38:00.037+05:30

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Home - Kumaon Trip (Oct 2011) -> Narayan Ashram and Syangse Sthan -> Part 6

this is a view of the chaudas valley and the road to narayan ashram. Pangu village is there on the far right of the picture and sosa is just after the turn on the far left.

syangse stahn is loacated in this area

Home - Kumaon Trip (Oct 2011) -> Narayan Ashram and Syangse Sthan -> Part 6

nass5

2011-11-27T19:38:00.036+05:30

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Home - Kumaon Trip (Oct 2011) -> Narayan Ashram and Syangse Sthan -> Part 5

ashram post office

enjoying some snacks (aloo ke gutke) and tea outside narayan ashram

after the snacks, we visited sosa village. from sosa leads a path to syangse sthan temple (worship place temple). it is a cute little temple within a small and beautiful forest.

these are the big houses of sosa village. check the intricate carvings on their doors.

this top, above the village, is called tilthin. it will be a nice place to visit in winters ... with it being snow covered.

flowers outside the window

view from a window

climbing up to syangse sthan. this route also leads to sirkha (if we take the detour on the right).

Home - Kumaon Trip (Oct 2011) -> Narayan Ashram and Syangse Sthan -> Part 5

nass4

2011-11-27T19:38:00.035+05:30

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Home - Kumaon Trip (Oct 2011) -> Narayan Ashram and Syangse Sthan -> Part 4

narayan ashram seen from above ...

Home - Kumaon Trip (Oct 2011) -> Narayan Ashram and Syangse Sthan -> Part 4

nass3

2011-11-27T19:38:00.034+05:30

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Home - Kumaon Trip (Oct 2011) -> Narayan Ashram and Syangse Sthan -> Part 3

api peak in nepal ... the clouds start coming in

this path leads to village sirkha ... it is the largest village in this area

this is a view of the kali river gorge. on the left hand side is nepal and on the right is india. any difference?

narayan ashram compound from top. the road finishes here. this is the last road of india, in this part of india.

the climb was a bit steep and we guys do love the dramatics :-)

a herd of sheep in the distance

enjoying the landscape of chaudas valley

Home - Kumaon Trip (Oct 2011) -> Narayan Ashram and Syangse Sthan -> Part 3

nass2

2011-11-27T19:38:00.033+05:30

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Home - Kumaon Trip (Oct 2011) -> Narayan Ashram and Syangse Sthan -> Part 2

this is the main temple compound. we can get a good view of nepal peaks (api, namjung, nampa) from here.

narayan ashram was established by narayan swamy in the early part of the 20th century. this is on the famous kailash route and is currently the last road stop (if you go by the pangu village route). of course, if we travel by the route along kali river, then that road goes from below narayan ashram to mangti. however, it is broken in many places and normally this is the preferred route nowadays.

the one on the left is namjung, the one on the right in api.

close up on api

this is close up on namjung mountain. budhi village (further ahead) is close to its base

the last of the flowers before winters arrive

the smaller building at the top of the ashram ... being renovated

chhiplakedar being surrounded by clouds

going for a small hike around the ashram

villages belwo the ashram. most of this land belongs to the ashram.

Home - Kumaon Trip (Oct 2011) -> Narayan Ashram and Syangse Sthan -> Part 2

nass1

2011-11-27T19:38:00.031+05:30

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Home - Kumaon Trip (Oct 2011) -> Narayan Ashram and Syangse Sthan -> Part 1

After a hearty breakfast of lai vegetables and parathas (indian bread), we decided to visit narayan ashram, sosa village (some relatives of our friends) and syangse sthan temple.

the Himkhola village gadhera (stream) ... it was a lovely sight. if the weather was warmer, it would have been ideal for a dip.

the Himkhola (Mongo or mongong) village can be seen in the background

stopping for a cup of tea enroute to narayan ashram. this village is called sosa. the green meadows above it are called tilthin. will try to go there this winter .... hopefully will be white :)

sosa village fields

approaching narayan ashram ... those peaks seen in the background are in nepal. i think it is a part of the kawa lekh range of mountains. to their left (north) lies api and namjung.

reached narayan ashram ... small shop selling aloo guthke (potatoes) and tea

there were some late autumn flowers in narayan ashram

Home - Kumaon Trip (Oct 2011) -> Narayan Ashram and Syangse Sthan -> Part 1

Narayan Ashram and Syangse Sthan Temple

2011-11-27T19:27:00.005+05:30

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Home - Kumaon Trip (Oct 2011) -> Narayan Ashram and Syangse Sthan

mah2

2011-11-27T19:06:00.011+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Trip (Oct 2011) -> Morning at Himkhola -> Part 2

Budjyu ... the oldest man in the village

Hiyan Singh (Dhauliya the hunter) with his grand daughter

These are the beautiful karandang bugyals above himkhola (mongong). Beyond them lise nasa murti. The famed keeda ghas (yartsa gambu or cordiceps) grows over here

Fields of mongong (Himkhola) village ready for the kartik month

gandhrayani - used for curing ailments related to nose, throat, etc

laee kee sabjee (kumoani vegetable)

entrance of himkhola (mongo / mongong) village

the gadhera (stream) at the entrance of the village

Home -> Kumaon Trip (Oct 2011) -> Morning at Himkhola -> Part 2

mah1

2011-11-27T19:06:00.010+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Trip (Oct 2011) -> Morning at Himkhola -> Part 1

Kamla jee getting the earthen stove ready

We reached Himkhola a bit late .. around 8:30 pm. The villagers had gone to sleep and we woke up everybody. Still, rung hospitality is always terrific and we got warm tea followed by a hearty dinner.

Pradhan jee's younger brother, Pradhan jee and Pant ji (our driver)

Rotis (Indian bread) with daal (lentil soup) and eggs

dinner :)

dinner :( (poor chap, i had only veg in dinner after seeing this)

this is the main village compund

pradhan ji adviced against going to himkhola at this time of the year. instead, we were told to check out the nearby places which we did.

going out for a morning stroll and visiting some old friends who live in the malla (upper) part of the village

the village fields

kids collecting flowers for the evening prayers

view of Himkhola (Mongo or mongong) village from the top

this is the vice-head woman (up-Pradhan) of the village

Home -> Kumaon Trip (Oct 2011) -> Morning at Himkhola -> Part 1

Morning at Himkhola

2011-11-27T19:00:00.002+05:30

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a2h2

2011-11-20T20:08:00.019+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Trip Oct 2011 -> Almora to Himkhola -> Part 2

Took a break upon reaching AVANI (NGO). it is about halfway between Almora and Dharchula

Kali river near Dharchula

As we approached Dharchula, it was getting dark. However, the local jeep drivers informed us that it will be ok to drive all the way up to Himkhola as there have been substantial repair works on the roads.

Winter was on its way. all the Shepards were bringing their sheep down to the valleys as it was getting cold in the bugyals above

Home -> Kumaon Trip Oct 2011 -> Almora to Himkhola -> Part 2

a2h1

2011-11-20T20:08:00.016+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Trip Oct 2011 -> Almora to Himkhola -> Part 1

Faint view of Trishul, Maiktoli, Mrigthuni, Panwali dwar peaks

We had taken an indica this time around. Tiwari ji's indica was not available - so he had arranged for another one. this time we had taken the flight from delhi to pantnagar - saves us on one day/night of travelling. So we left Mumbai in the morning, delhi in afternoon and were in Almora for dinner.

We left Almora in the morning, planning to reach Himkhola by evening. There was a smaller road from below Binsar to Dhaulchhina .. so we did not go by Chitai but went by this route instead. it is more green and picterusque.

This is the kaccha road ... turn right just before binsar and it will take you straight to Dhaulchhina (just above Paliyun village)

cute huts in the forest

taking a tea break at dhaulchhina ... the paper had some interesting news about snowfall at chhiplakedar.

view from the restaurant window

some kids selling guavas

"lutt" -- used in feeding livestock during the winter months

stopped by to wash the guavas in a gadhera (stream)

Home -> Kumaon Trip Oct 2011 -> Almora to Himkhola -> Part 1

Almora To Himkhola

2011-11-20T19:42:00.018+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Trip Oct 2011 -> Almora to Himkhola

Home -> Kumaon Trip Oct 2011 -> Almora to Himkhola

East Kumaon trip November 2011

2011-11-20T19:30:00.013+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon trip Oct 2011

We had gone on a trip to Kumaon in Oct - Nov 2011. The original plan was to climb Chhiplakedar (Chhiplakot), but given the time constrains, we did not do so. Instead, we went to Chaudas valley (narayan ashram, himkhola, syangse sthan, shyankoti, etc). It was nice to visit Himkhola village again and enjoy their hospitality. Also made a small documentary after climbing shyankoti :)

We missed on seeing the stone statues erected by the Phagaliyal (Fagaliyal?) clan. Will do that next time. The jungles of Kumaon are a treasure trove of history and this trip was like playing a Kumaoni version of Lara Croft Tomb raider :)

Home -> Kumaon trip Oct 2011

Panchchuli Panaroma

2011-05-19T01:25:00.002+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Snow at Munsyari -> Panchchuli Panaroma

sam3

2011-03-05T16:41:00.003+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Snow at Munsyari -> Part 3

Munsyari in the evening (after the first round of Hyun)

it turns white all around

Old Johari saying - "आधा संसार, आधा मुनस्यार" (in half of the world, God has made evrything else. In the other half he has made munsyaar - land of snow).

snow city munsyari

night falls on johar

Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Snow at Munsyari -> Part 3

sam16

2011-03-05T16:04:00.003+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Snow at Munsyari -> Part 16

sam15

2011-03-05T16:03:00.010+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Snow at Munsyari -> Part 15

Chaukori - good weather, which will turn cloudy tomorrow.

Taking a break near Ranikhet.

Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Snow at Munsyari -> Part 15

sam14

2011-03-05T16:03:00.009+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Snow at Munsyari -> Part 14

We were planning to return via Kalamuni to Almora. However, the roads were blocked, so we had to go via Jauljibi. Long route. So we stayed over at Chaukori for the night.

Panchchuli from Madkot. From the bottom of the Gori Ganga valley also Panchchuli can be seen.

Chhiplakedar

Gori ganga river near Madkot

Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Snow at Munsyari -> Part 14

sam13

2011-03-05T16:02:00.007+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Snow at Munsyari -> Part 13

Panorama - i will later on figure out how to upload it in a larger size

Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Snow at Munsyari -> Part 13

sam12

2011-03-05T16:02:00.006+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Snow at Munsyari -> Part 12

Last morning at Munsyari -> Hansling, Ralam, Rajrambha, Panchchuli.

First rays of sun touch Panchchuli. The wind is blowing the snow off the peaks ... looks golden when mingled with early morning sun rays.

This is called the jet stream effect.

Gauraiyaa (sparrow) coming over for khajooras

it's breakfast time

Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Snow at Munsyari -> Part 12

sam11

2011-03-05T16:01:00.016+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Snow at Munsyari -> Part 11

Last morning at Munsyari

Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Snow at Munsyari -> Part 11

sam10

2011-03-05T16:01:00.015+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Snow at Munsyari -> Part 10

The temple

Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Snow at Munsyari -> Part 10

sam9

2011-03-05T16:01:00.014+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Snow at Munsyari -> Part 9

Hisalu buds blossoming .... just a couple of months later this will be a yummy hisalu :-)

Khalia

Panchchuli ... the clouds start coming in again

Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Snow at Munsyari -> Part 9

sam8

2011-03-05T16:01:00.013+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Snow at Munsyari -> Part 8

Video of panorama as seen from the temple.

Chhiplakedar

Panchchuli peaks

Hansling

Tiwari ji posing for a pic

Chhiplakedar and the villages near Munsyari

Everybody is busy with their cameras :-)

Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Snow at Munsyari -> Part 8

sam7

2011-03-05T16:00:00.019+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Snow at Munsyari -> Part 7

Panchchuli in all its glory

The wind blows off the snow from the tops (jet stream effect)

Taking a small trip to the nanda devi temple. This place has the best views from Munsyari town.

Hansling

Nanda Devi temple at Munsyari

view of khalia bugyals above Munsyari

Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Snow at Munsyari -> Part 7

sam6

2011-03-05T16:00:00.017+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Snow at Munsyari -> Part 6

Good morning Panchchuli

The clouds finally lift off Panchchuli

Ralam valley

The big one finally shows its face.

The Martoli peak

Chhiplakedar .... couldn't go here this time. But will deffo go here some other time ... always follow your dreams :-)))

snowline starts retreating

the big one :-)

oops ... on auto timer ... did not get my face in it.

yup, this attempt was better.

Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Snow at Munsyari -> Part 6

sam5

2011-03-05T16:00:00.016+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Snow at Munsyari -> Part 5

while waiting for the weather to clear, some gauraiyaa (sparrows) were chirping along. took some of their pics also.

a sitaula also joins the party

Finally the clouds lift off panchchuli

Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Snow at Munsyari -> Part 5

sam4

2011-03-05T16:00:00.015+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Snow at Munsyari -> Part 4

It just snowed in Munsyari non stop for 2 days more after this. I had fallen ill on one of these, so just stayed in bed. Luckily, the weather got clear for 2 days for after that for us to roam around.

Early morning around Panchchuli and the weather clears a bit.

The peaks blow rajrambha come into view.

Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Snow at Munsyari -> Part 4

sam2

2011-03-05T15:55:00.007+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Snow at Munsyari -> Part 2

Reached munsyari after a really tough drive. The road was very bad but Tiwari ji was up to the task. finally, we were rewarded with a wonderful snowfall (hyun) after reaching munsyari

relaxing at kmvn, while it snows outside.

snowfall, as seen from the other side of kmvn

hyun at munsyari

enjoying gud (jaggery) mixed with snow.

the snow pauses for a few minutes so that we could take some pics ... and then it did not stop for 2 more days.

Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Snow at Munsyari -> Part 2

Snow at Munsyari

2011-03-05T15:36:00.012+05:30

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The "baap" of all Munsyari pictures -> huge panaroma from Munsyari

Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Snow at Munsyari

sam1

2011-03-05T15:35:00.006+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Snow at Munsyari -> Part 1

Leaving Kali valley and entering the Gori Ganga valley

Entering the Gori ganga valley

Waterfall

Beautiful villages along the Gori Ganga valley

Reaching madkot after a long drive. We stopped here for tea and pakodas. Looking up, we could see the snowline coming down to near Madkot (see between the clouds ... patches of snow can be seen). This implied that the snowline would be reaching Munsyari soon.

some snow can be seen below the clouds.

Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Snow at Munsyari -> Part 1

k2dp8

2011-02-27T20:49:00.011+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Kathgodam to Dharchula -> Part 8

The next morning also it did not stop raining. in fact, we could see snow coming down to the mountain tops of Dharchula. This meant that there would be lots of snow at Narayan ashram and it will be impossible to go up there ... we might even be unable to go beyond Pangu. Hence it was decided to turn back and drive upto Munsyari.

The snow lines coming down to Dharchula .. time to hurry to Munsyari or the roads will be closed down.

See, the snow can be seen from Dharchula

Now we reach Jauljibi and turn right for the road along Gori river. The road goes below a waterfall. Check it out.

Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Kathgodam to Dharchula -> Part 8

k2dp7

2011-02-27T20:49:00.009+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Kathgodam to Dharchula -> Part 7

Reached Dharchula - view from KMVN Dharchula

Dharchula (Indian side)

Took a small walk to Darchula (Nepal)

Darchula (Nepal) in the night

Dharchula (India) in the night

Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Kathgodam to Dharchula -> Part 7

k2dp6

2011-02-27T20:48:00.008+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Kathgodam to Dharchula -> Part 6

Beyond Didihat, the road was being widened - this caused it to be dirty and muddy (because of the rains). A tree fell on the road a few minutes before we arrived.

Reaching Jauljibi and then proceeding on to Dharchula (this is the India Nepal border)

The beautiful Kali river. Bharatvarsh is on the left and Nepal on the right. God made this earth, man drew the lines :-(

Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Kathgodam to Dharchula -> Part 6

k2dp5

2011-02-27T20:46:00.004+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Kathgodam to Dharchula -> Part 5

Chaukori Thal road

Approaching Thal - from there we went to Didihat

Thal Didihat route

Approaching Didihat

Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Kathgodam to Dharchula -> Part 5

k2dp4

2011-02-27T20:45:00.012+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Kathgodam to Dharchula -> Part 4

Driving down to Thal .. we stopped for a few pictures

Group photograph

Group disbursing :-)

Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Kathgodam to Dharchula -> Part 4

k2dp3

2011-02-27T20:45:00.011+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Kathgodam to Dharchula -> Part 3

We reached Chaukori in the night ... the roads were really terrible this time.

There were lots of clouds at Chaukori ... so could not see any peaks. The good sign was that we should get lots of snow when we go higher up .. and boy, did we get it :-))))

Taking a walk around the tea estate

Abandoned tea estate

These mutts ate 3 or 4 packets of buiscuits in a few minutes

Total clouds (in winters) => Lots of snow up ahead

Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Kathgodam to Dharchula -> Part 3

k2dp2

2011-02-27T20:26:00.017+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Kathgodam to Dharchula -> Part 2

Approaching Dhaulchhina - the 2nd food stop

Drinking water from a small stream before Dhaulchhina

2nd round of food starts at Dhaulchhina

Dhaulchhina

Pakodas at Dhaulchhina

Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Kathgodam to Dharchula -> Part 2

k2dp1

2011-02-27T20:26:00.016+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Kathgodam to Dharchula -> Part 1

Reached India ;-)

Kathgodam (Bhimtal's hill is in the background). We begin our journey from here.

Taking a break at Kainchi and visiting Neem Karoli Baba's temple

Kainchi Temple

Yummy Indian food at a dhaba next to the temple at Kainchi (Pakodas, Raita and chutney)

Big pahadi lemons - the shopkeeper made yummy neembu pani (lemon water) from this. It was awesome... the gormadising trip had truly begun

Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Kathgodam to Dharchula -> Part 1

Kathgodam to Dharchula

2011-02-26T23:12:00.009+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip -> Kathgodam to Dharchula

East Kumaon and Nepal trip Feb 2011

2011-02-26T16:16:00.008+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon Winter Trip Home

This winter some of us had gone on a trp of Almora, Dharchula, Munsyari, Chaukori and nearby areas. The original plan was for Chhiplakedar, but too much of snow caused us to change it to Himkhola and Narayan Ashram. However, there was a massive snowfall after reaching Kumaon and we had to stay put in Munsyari. So it was just relaxing and enjoying the snowfall at Munsyari ....

Enjoy the pics and videos .....

gonr6

2010-08-06T16:42:00.012+05:30

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Home -> Summer trip home -> Good old Nainital and Ramgarh -> Part 6

gonr5

2010-08-06T16:42:00.011+05:30

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Home -> Summer trip home -> Good old Nainital and Ramgarh -> Part 5

gonr4

2010-08-06T16:42:00.009+05:30

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Home -> Summer trip home -> Good old Nainital and Ramgarh -> Part 4

gonr1

2010-08-06T16:41:00.014+05:30

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Home -> Summer trip home -> Good old Nainital and Ramgarh -> Part 1

gonr3

2010-08-06T16:41:00.013+05:30

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Home -> Summer trip home -> Good old Nainital and Ramgarh -> Part 3

gonr2

2010-08-06T16:41:00.012+05:30

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Home -> Summer trip home -> Good old Nainital and Ramgarh -> Part 2

Good Old Nainital and Ramgarh

2010-08-06T16:35:00.004+05:30

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Home -> Summer trip home -> Good Old Nainital and Ramgarh

Gangolihat and Patal Bhuvaneshwar

2010-08-06T16:26:00.004+05:30

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Home -> Summer trip home -> Gangolihat and Patal Bhuvaneshwar

h2bd32

2010-08-06T16:08:00.006+05:30

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Home -> Summer trip home -> Himkhola to Karandang Bugyals - Day 3 -> Part 2

h2bd31

2010-08-06T16:07:00.007+05:30

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Home -> Summer trip home -> Himkhola to Karandang Bugyals - Day 3 -> Part 1

Himkhola to Karandang bugyals Day 3

2010-08-06T16:05:00.006+05:30

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Home -> Summer trip home -> Himkhola to Karandang Bugyals - Day 3

Himkhola to Karandang bugyals Day 2

2010-07-25T17:40:00.004+05:30

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Home -> Summer trip home -> Himkhola to Karandang Bugyals - Day 2

h2bd26

2010-07-25T17:39:00.027+05:30

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Home -> Summer trip home -> Himkhola to Karandang Bugyals - Day 2 -> Part 6

h2bd25

2010-07-25T17:39:00.024+05:30

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Home -> Summer trip home -> Himkhola to Karandang Bugyals - Day 2 -> Part 5

मेरी प्यारी चल प्यारी
मेरी प्यारी चल प्यारी

यो छो उंचा डाना प्यारी, तेरी याद आन्छु प्यारी,
ऊँची नीची डांडू माँ, हरी भरी डांडू माँ.
मीठी मीठी बात करी ला हरी भरी छाओं माँ.
मीठी मीठी बात करी ला हरी भरी छाओं माँ.

सुन प्यारी, मेरी प्यारी.
डांडा कांडा घूमी रौला हरी भरी छाओं माँ.
रंगीलो रंगीलो डांडा तुझको लेजा सुवा.
मेरी याद में आजा यह करान्दंग टोपा.

हरे हरे सुवा मेरो रंगीलो पहाडा.
ओ दीपा घास काट ली कुमाओं को डाना माँ.
ओ दीपा घास काट ली, ओ दीपा घास काट ली तू .. यो कुमाओं को डाना माँ.
रंगीलो पहाड़ के डाना माँ.

यो आई रे छु धारचूला बोर्डर माँ,
ओ प्यारी हिटे जानु हिटे जानु करान्दंग को चढ़ाई.
मीठी मीठी बात करू ला हरी भरी छाओं माँ.
चल प्यारी, मेरी प्यारी,
मेरो संग हाथ सुवा, सुवा हिटो यह करान्दंग टोपा पार करू रुला.
सेकुअखान, कंग्लाखान, यो सेकुअखान, कंग्लाखान, नासामर्ती सुवा.
ऊँचो तिर्छो बाटो यह, पोलाखला पल्लाखला, ऊँचो डाना चढ़ाई.
कर्चिल्ला का बोर्डर सुवा, याद बहूता आंछो.
तुमरो आंसू बहने, के बारे में मैं सोचूँ.
हे रब्बा सागर, सागर, हे रब्बा सागर, तेरू याद माँ.
हे रब्बा सागर, सागर रब्बा तेरू याद माँ.

पतझड़ माँ पंछी उड़े, डाल पे कुई कुई ना बासने होलो.
ये तो जाने होला.
मेरी प्यारी, मेरी प्यारी, तेरी याद माँ मैं जानी यो सागर तालाबा.
देख बटी आला तुमी पारवती ताला माँ.
देख बटी आला तुमी पारवती ताला माँ.

Home -> Summer trip home -> Himkhola to Karandang Bugyals - Day 2 -> Part 5

h2bd24

2010-07-25T17:39:00.017+05:30

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Home -> Summer trip home -> Himkhola to Karandang Bugyals - Day 2 -> Part 4

h2bd23

2010-07-25T17:39:00.016+05:30

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Home -> Summer trip home -> Himkhola to Karandang Bugyals - Day 2 -> Part 3

h2bd22

2010-07-25T17:39:00.015+05:30

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Home -> Summer trip home -> Himkhola to Karandang Bugyals - Day 2 -> Part 2

h2bd21

2010-07-25T17:38:00.003+05:30

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Home -> Summer trip home -> Himkhola to Karandang Bugyals - Day 2 -> Part 1

h2bd18

2010-07-24T06:33:00.009+05:30

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Home -> Summer trip home -> Himkhola to Karandang Bugyals - Day 1 -> Part 8

h2bd17

2010-07-24T06:33:00.008+05:30

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Home -> Summer trip home -> Himkhola to Karandang Bugyals - Day 1 -> Part 7

h2bd16

2010-07-24T06:00:00.036+05:30

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Home -> Summer trip home -> Himkhola to Karandang Bugyals - Day 1 -> Part 6

h2bd15

2010-07-24T06:00:00.035+05:30

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Home -> Summer trip home -> Himkhola to Karandang Bugyals - Day 1 -> Part 5

h2bd14

2010-07-24T06:00:00.033+05:30

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Home -> Summer trip home -> Himkhola to Karandang Bugyals - Day 1 -> Part 4

h2bd13

2010-07-24T06:00:00.032+05:30

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Home -> Summer trip home -> Himkhola to Karandang Bugyals - Day 1 -> Part 3

h2bd11

2010-07-24T05:59:00.017+05:30

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Home -> Summer trip home -> Himkhola to Karandang Bugyals - Day 1 -> Part 1

h2bd12

2010-07-24T05:59:00.016+05:30

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Home -> Summer trip home -> Himkhola to Karandang Bugyals - Day 1 -> Part 2

Himkhola to Karandang bugyals

2010-07-24T05:57:00.008+05:30

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Home -> Summer trip home -> Himkhola to Karandang Bugyals - Day 1

k2hp7

2010-07-11T04:26:00.032+05:30

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Home -> Summer trip home -> Kathgodam to Himkhola -> Part 7

crossing the gadhera

this was the highlight of the nursery. they were growing the thuner trees.

Paksa joins us for dinner :-)

Kamla ji serving us dinner

a small documentary on thuner :-)))

Home -> Summer trip home -> Kathgodam to Himkhola -> Part 7

k2hp6

2010-07-11T04:26:00.031+05:30

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Home -> Summer trip home -> Kathgodam to Himkhola -> Part 6

bicchu botee or shishuna (poison ivy). if you touch it, it will itch like anything. one remedy is to spit on that part. it is also made into a tasty vegetable dish called shishuna kaa saag.

old style village house at himkhola

this is putroo, a sweet dog at himkhola village.

a typical village scene

playing with putroo

we went to check out the nursery in the evening. it was on the other side of the gadhera

Home -> Summer trip home -> Kathgodam to Himkhola -> Part 6

k2hp5

2010-07-11T04:26:00.030+05:30

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Home -> Summer trip home -> Kathgodam to Himkhola -> Part 5

back at himkhola village. an old lady was selling plums ... 6 plums for Rs.1

there is a small gadhera (hill stream / brook) flowing next to himkhola.

lots of ferns were springing up everywhere

path to a forest nursery .. which we later visited in the evening

Home -> Summer trip home -> Kathgodam to Himkhola -> Part 5

k2hp4

2010-07-11T04:26:00.029+05:30

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Home -> Summer trip home -> Kathgodam to Himkhola -> Part 4

old style windows at the ashram

narayan ashram

Home -> Summer trip home -> Kathgodam to Himkhola -> Part 4

k2hp3

2010-07-11T04:26:00.028+05:30

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Home -> Summer trip home -> Kathgodam to Himkhola -> Part 3

cow inside a "goth"

the road to narayan ashram :-))))

it is very easy to drive on this road :-)

view of dhauli ganga from the top

himkhola village entrance

top shot of dhauli

road to ashram

this is the road ... cool :-)

narayan ashram is seen in the horizon. we had decided to spend an hour at the ashram and then come back to himkhola

a small helipad had been made here. the chief minister had to visit this area, so they made the helipad for him.

approaching narayan ashram

Home -> Summer trip home -> Kathgodam to Himkhola -> Part 3

k2hp2

2010-07-11T04:25:00.015+05:30

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Home -> Summer trip home -> Kathgodam to Himkhola -> Part 2

dhauli river ... there is a dam over here, at a place called chirkalla. the road going straight goes towards tibet. the one on the left goes towards chirkalla, kanchoti (from where another road goes to narayan ashram) and ultimately to sobla and dar villages.

the dam at chirkalla

crossing chirkalla and going towards kachoti

at kanchoti

kanchoti ... the fast flowing dhauli

we stopped here for some snacks and some pics :-)

this is the road leading to pangu, himkhola, sosa and narayan ashram

an old lady showing us her cows. she was originally from near berinag, so she could understand our version of pahadi (almora pahadi) better. got pretty happy to know that we also speak her version of pahadi (in darma valley, bhotias speak adifferent version of pahadi) ... as they say in the hills .. even pahadi changes after every 12 miles.

Home -> Summer trip home -> Kathgodam to Himkhola -> Part 2

k2hp1

2010-07-11T04:25:00.013+05:30

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Home -> Summer trip home -> Kathgodam to Himkhola -> Part 1

Enjoying some good pahadi food :-)

maduae kee roti, aloo ka jhol, buransh juice .... yummy

Dhan - chidi (wealth birds).

This was taken in a small shop in Didihat. We had stopped there for a sip of tea.

Dharchula - Himkhola / Narayan ashram route .... awesome :-)

Api peak ... highest peak of western nepal

bridge at tawaghat. this road will lead to tibet ... we took the one going towards darma.

rocks carved by water

Home -> Summer trip home -> Kathgodam to Himkhola -> Part 1

Kathgodam to Himkhola

2010-07-11T04:21:00.008+05:30

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Home -> Summer trip home -> Kathgodam to Himkhola

The trip plan was very simple - London -> Delhi -> miss train -> catch alternative bus -> Reach Kathgodam in the middle of the night -> Grab some shut eye at any place -> Leave early in the morning to Dharchula.

Kathgodam -> Dharchula is approx 300+ kms. Phew .....

Himkhola Karandang bugyals summer trip

2010-07-11T04:17:00.011+05:30

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Home -> Karandang summer trip

This summer, some of us decided to visit the Himkhola area in Dharchula (district Pithoragarh). I had last visited in in Jan 2010 and found its forests really beautiful .. amongst the best I have seen. So I got alsong some more people and we went to Himkhola village again. From there we travelled to the bugyals (high altitude meadows) above it. It was a wonderful trip and we also made videos of the shepherds singing and dancing :-).

Read on and enjoy ....

Home -> Karandang summer trip

Munsyari stay

2010-01-24T16:08:00.005+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon road trip -> Munsyari stay

after reaching back to himkhola village .. we left for dharchula. reached dharchula at 10:30 pm. hit the sack ... but also updated a friend on the phone about the journey back through pitch dark forests, without a torch. it is always easy to recollect how you did it .. also sounds enjoyable .. but when one is actually doing it ... phew!!!

next day left dharchula for munsyari...

gori ganga river flowing below munsyari

good old munsyari ... view of panchchuli peaks from the kmvn

mati ngo .. you can buy all sorts of hand made woollens from them. they also provide homestay facilities... located just below the munsyari main town (near the dainik jagran boeard).

home stay rates are around Rs. 300 or Rs. 350 per day (includes stay and food)

Home -> Kumaon road trip -> Munsyari stay

hkt11

2010-01-24T12:17:00.029+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon road trip -> Himkhola village and trek to Kurmthang -> Himkhola Kurmthang trek -> Part 11

group photo at kurmthang bugyal

l -to -r -> me, mr D C tiwari, our guide ?(Mr. H Singh)

came back a bit late in the night. we stayed at the bugyal from 3:00 to 3:30 pm. then reached himkhola at around 7:30 in the night.

were stranded in the forest without a torch ... but the guide was very resourceful. he burnt some ningaal (short sized bamboo sticks) .. and they glowed in the dar... helping us to cross the gadhera in the night.

who has got the best smile?

:-) :-) :-) :-) :-)

wow ... what smiles :-))))

Home -> Kumaon road trip -> Himkhola village and trek to Kurmthang -> Himkhola Kurmthang trek -> Part 11

hkt10

2010-01-24T12:17:00.028+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon road trip -> Himkhola village and trek to Kurmthang -> Himkhola Kurmthang trek -> Part 10

api namjyun and dudhwan

api

small peak to the left of api

now the next few pics r the close up of the peaks ... just enjoy :-)

Home -> Kumaon road trip -> Himkhola village and trek to Kurmthang -> Himkhola Kurmthang trek -> Part 10

hkt9

2010-01-24T12:17:00.027+05:30

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Home -> Kumaon road trip -> Himkhola village and trek to Kurmthang -> Himkhola Kurmthang trek -> Part 9

final climb to the bugyal post lunch ...almost there.

it was pretty dry in the winters but will be more green in summers and monsoons

chiplakot bugyals ... i have been adviced by another friend to go here. will do so after i make another trek to himkhola (a longer one) :-)

namjyun peak

the green mountain is india, the white one is nepal

notice the small village in the right hand side of the valley? we came form somewhere over there :-)

good effort for 1 day.

the guide is also taking a break.

api and namjyun peaks

Home -> Kumaon road trip -> Himkhola village and trek to Kurmthang -> Himkhola Kurmthang trek -> Part 9